How to lay laminate flooring – A guide for DIYers

Laminate flooring looks great and doesn’t cost the earth – but should you install it yourself?

This guide takes you through what’s involved in laying laminate flooring, so you can decide if it’s worth doing yourself or if you’d be better off getting a pro in.

It’s not the hardest DIY job in the world, but it’s also not as simple as the videos make it look. You’ll be measuring, cutting, trimming, clicking, nudging, and kneeling for hours. You’ll also run into annoying things like radiator pipes, door frames, and walls that aren’t quite straight.

If you’re doing one small, square room and you’re patient and careful, you’ll probably be fine. But for larger rooms or awkward layouts, it can get frustrating quickly.

This guide covers:

• What to think about before you start
• The equipment and tools you’ll need
• How to prepare the room
• How to lay the flooring step-by-step
• Tips and common mistakes
• Handy videos to help visualise the job

Even if you’re not doing it yourself, it’s helpful to understand what’s involved so you can chat with your flooring fitter and avoid surprises.

Step 1: Planning and preparation

Decide what to do about skirting boards

Before you start, think about how you want the edges of the room to look. You’ve got a few options:

• Remove and refit the skirting boards after laying the floor – this gives the cleanest look
• Remove and replace them with new ones if they’re looking tired
• Leave the skirting where it is and use beading (floor trim) to cover the gap between the laminate and the wall
• Slide the laminate under the skirting if there’s enough space – no beading needed, but not always possible

Be honest with yourself here. Removing skirting sounds easy until you realise how much filler, paint and patience you’ll need to get them looking neat again. If you’re hiring someone, they’ll often recommend beading because it’s quicker and cheaper.

Choose which direction to lay the flooring

The direction of the planks changes how a room feels. It also affects how easy the job is.

Your main options:

• Vertically (front to back of the room)
• Horizontally (side to side)
• Diagonally (stylish but trickier and more wasteful)

A common rule is to lay the flooring in the same direction as the main light source (like a window) or in line with the entrance. In narrow spaces like hallways, it usually makes sense to run the boards lengthways.

Important: If you’re laying over old wooden floorboards, you’ll need to run the laminate in the opposite direction to help it stay flat and secure.

Let your flooring settle

Laminate needs to sit in the room for at least 48 hours before installation so it can adjust to temperature and humidity. Stack the packs flat or with spacers in between for airflow.

If you skip this step, the boards might expand or shrink after you’ve laid them – and that’s when gaps or bumps appear.

Same goes for underlay (especially fibreboard). Let it sit in the room for a full day before you start fitting.

Step 2: Clear the room and prep the floor

Empty the space completely

Start by removing all furniture, rugs, and anything else that’s in the way. Obvious, yes – but worth saying. You’ll need clear space to move around and lay boards properly.

If the room’s carpeted and you want to keep the carpet, roll it up carefully. Otherwise, cut it into strips with a utility knife to make it easier to carry out and dispose of.

Remove the carpet grippers

You’ll find thin wooden strips with sharp nails (carpet grippers) around the edge of the floor. These need to come up – and they can be a bit of a pain.

Wear gloves and use a flat crowbar or chisel to prise them off. Try to lift near the nails to avoid splintering the wood.

Clean the floor

Once everything’s out, sweep and vacuum the area. Bits of old underlay, grit, or dust can mess up the fit of your new flooring – especially if the underlay is thin.

Step 3: Fit the underlay

Underlay goes between your subfloor and the laminate flooring. It helps with sound, heat insulation, and cushioning. Some types also stop moisture from rising – essential if you’re laying over concrete.

Choose the right type:

• Standard polyfoam rolls (3mm): Good for wooden subfloors
• Thicker fibreboard (5–7mm): Best for concrete floors and uneven surfaces
• Underlay with damp-proof membrane: A must on concrete

Lay the underlay in rows, making sure it’s smooth and flat. If you’re using rolls, tape them together so they don’t shift around. Most packs include fitting instructions – don’t skip them.

Leave a small gap (about 10mm) around radiator pipes and the walls.

Step 4: Laying your laminate flooring

Now the fun part. And by fun, we mean repetitive, occasionally frustrating, but very satisfying when it’s done.

Start in a corner

Pick one corner of the room and lay your first plank with spacers between it and the wall. These spacers create the expansion gap you need – laminate needs room to move slightly with changes in temperature and humidity.

If you don’t have spacers, offcuts of wood will do. Just make sure the gap is roughly 6–10mm all around the room.

Click the next plank into the end of the first and keep going along the row.

Cut the final piece to size

When you reach the end of the row, you’ll probably need to cut the last board. Measure carefully, mark your cut on the back, and use a fine-tooth handsaw, jigsaw or circular saw.

If your cut-off piece is longer than 30cm, you can usually use it to start the next row.

Stagger your rows

Laminate flooring looks better when the joins are staggered – like brickwork. This also helps with strength and stability.

To keep things looking natural, avoid a repeated pattern. Mix it up a bit. Each plank in a new row should start at least 30cm away from the previous row’s join.

Fitting the final row

The last row usually needs trimming lengthways to fit. This can be fiddly – take your time.

Measure carefully, remembering to allow space for spacers at the wall. Use a pull bar to ease these final boards into place – this is where that laminate fitting kit really comes into its own.

Common problems (and how to avoid them)

• Boards won’t click together? Check for dirt in the grooves or damage to the click edges
• Gaps after installation? You might have skipped spacers or not acclimatised the boards
• Uneven floor? Underlay might not be thick enough to level it out
• Radiator pipes in the way? Cut a U-shape out of the board, lay it, then glue in a matching offcut behind the pipe

If any of this sounds like too much faff, don’t worry – there’s no shame in calling a local flooring fitter. A good one can usually do a room in a day and will know how to deal with all the awkward bits.

Tools you’ll need

Here’s a basic list of what you’ll need for the job:

• Laminate flooring and matching beading
• Underlay (with or without built-in moisture barrier)
• Laminate fitting kit (mallet, pull bar, spacers, tapping block)
• Fine-tooth saw (jigsaw, handsaw, or circular saw)
• Tape measure
• Pencil and square
• Knee pads (you’ll thank yourself)
• Vacuum cleaner or broom
• Utility knife
• Workbench or firm surface for cutting

Should you buy a laminate flooring kit?

Yes – unless you already have all the tools, a fitting kit is well worth it.

Expect to pay around £15–£20 for one. You’ll get:

• A rubber mallet
• A pull bar
• A tapping block
• A bunch of spacers

They’ll make the job neater, easier and far less frustrating.

Final thoughts

Laying laminate flooring is one of those jobs that looks easy in theory, but it does take time, patience and a bit of physical effort.

If you’re doing a small room and enjoy a challenge, give it a go. If the space is large, awkward, or you’re short on time, it might be more cost-effective to hire someone who does it every day.

Either way, knowing what’s involved helps you make the right call. Check out the videos below.

How to Lay Laminate Flooring (video)

Installing laminate flooring for the first time (video)

Laminate floor installation and clever tips for beginners (video)

Featured image by Max Vakhtbovycn